WHAT MAKES UP AN ELECTRIC FENCE
|
An electric fence is made up of a number of essentials:
|
|
1. Energiser
The powerhouse of your electric fence. The energiser converts electricity from the mains supply or a battery into regular high voltage pulses of electric current that travel along the entire length of the fence. Each pulse only lasts for a fraction of a second, and is produces a roughly one second intervals. The type of energiser you need depends on how close the fence is to a mains supply, how long the fence will be, and the kind of animals you want to control.
2. Conductor (Wire)
You can use various types of wire, or conductor, for an electric fence. Steel wire, either single or multi-stranded, is strong, durable and highly effective at conducting electricity, so the animal receives a greater shock when touching the fence. However, steel wire is heavier than other alternatives, and best used in permanent or semi-permanent fencing. A lighter alternative is polywire - UV-stabilised polythene twine with three or more strands of stainless steel wire woven into it. Polywire is designed for temporary fencing and strip-grazing, although the more substantial polyrope can be used for permanent fencing. Polytape and polybraid consist of stainless steel wires and polythene strands woven into a ribbon, and come in a range of widths and colours. Both are highly visible, though more vulnerable in high winds, and can be used for permanent and temporary fencing. Electrified netting is made a range of mesh sizes for different animals. The horizontal strands are polywire, while the vertical strands are plain polythene twine. It is most suitable for temporary fencing and strip-grazing.
3. Reels
A reel allows you to unroll the fence wire evenly without creating potentially damaging kinks, and roll it up again neatly for reuse. By locking firmly onto a reel post, the reel also keeps the fence wire taut. We offer two kinds of reels, a RAPPA reel for fencing machines and a hand reel for manual fencing.
4. Stakes and Posts
While permanent fences use timber posts to hold the fence wire, temporary fences use metal or plastic stakes, with more substantial anchor posts at the beginning and corners to take the strain. Temporary fences also require a reel post at the end of the fence line to hold spare fence wire firmly, and keep the line taut. Posts and stakes come in different heights and spacings, depending on the stock you want to fence.
5. Insulators
Insulators stop the fence wire touching the post or stake, so the electricity doesn't leak back to the ground. Anchor or end-strain insulators also take the strain of the wire at the end of the fence line or at corners. Polystakes, made of non-conductive plastic, do not need separate insulators.
Good quality insulators should be smooth, and dry easily to prevent moisture collecting in nooks or cracks - otherwise the current can leak in an ‘arc', which can be heard as a regular clicking sound. Arcing reduces the effectiveness of the fence. You can use offset insulators to hold an electric fence wire a short distance away from a new or existing permanent fence. The wire stops animals causing damage by biting the fence, or leaning or rubbing against it, and helps a timber or wire mesh fence last longer.
6. Earth Stakes
To work effectively, all electric fences have to be properly earthed. Earth stakes are inserted into the ground and attached to the energiser, and ensure the power returns through the ground and back to the energiser when an animal completes the circuit by touching the fence.
7. Fence Tester
All electric fences need regular maintenance, so you need a device to measure the power on the fence lines. A fence tester, or voltmeter, will help you locate any problem areas where power is leaking away.
The powerhouse of your electric fence. The energiser converts electricity from the mains supply or a battery into regular high voltage pulses of electric current that travel along the entire length of the fence. Each pulse only lasts for a fraction of a second, and is produces a roughly one second intervals. The type of energiser you need depends on how close the fence is to a mains supply, how long the fence will be, and the kind of animals you want to control.
2. Conductor (Wire)
You can use various types of wire, or conductor, for an electric fence. Steel wire, either single or multi-stranded, is strong, durable and highly effective at conducting electricity, so the animal receives a greater shock when touching the fence. However, steel wire is heavier than other alternatives, and best used in permanent or semi-permanent fencing. A lighter alternative is polywire - UV-stabilised polythene twine with three or more strands of stainless steel wire woven into it. Polywire is designed for temporary fencing and strip-grazing, although the more substantial polyrope can be used for permanent fencing. Polytape and polybraid consist of stainless steel wires and polythene strands woven into a ribbon, and come in a range of widths and colours. Both are highly visible, though more vulnerable in high winds, and can be used for permanent and temporary fencing. Electrified netting is made a range of mesh sizes for different animals. The horizontal strands are polywire, while the vertical strands are plain polythene twine. It is most suitable for temporary fencing and strip-grazing.
3. Reels
A reel allows you to unroll the fence wire evenly without creating potentially damaging kinks, and roll it up again neatly for reuse. By locking firmly onto a reel post, the reel also keeps the fence wire taut. We offer two kinds of reels, a RAPPA reel for fencing machines and a hand reel for manual fencing.
4. Stakes and Posts
While permanent fences use timber posts to hold the fence wire, temporary fences use metal or plastic stakes, with more substantial anchor posts at the beginning and corners to take the strain. Temporary fences also require a reel post at the end of the fence line to hold spare fence wire firmly, and keep the line taut. Posts and stakes come in different heights and spacings, depending on the stock you want to fence.
5. Insulators
Insulators stop the fence wire touching the post or stake, so the electricity doesn't leak back to the ground. Anchor or end-strain insulators also take the strain of the wire at the end of the fence line or at corners. Polystakes, made of non-conductive plastic, do not need separate insulators.
Good quality insulators should be smooth, and dry easily to prevent moisture collecting in nooks or cracks - otherwise the current can leak in an ‘arc', which can be heard as a regular clicking sound. Arcing reduces the effectiveness of the fence. You can use offset insulators to hold an electric fence wire a short distance away from a new or existing permanent fence. The wire stops animals causing damage by biting the fence, or leaning or rubbing against it, and helps a timber or wire mesh fence last longer.
6. Earth Stakes
To work effectively, all electric fences have to be properly earthed. Earth stakes are inserted into the ground and attached to the energiser, and ensure the power returns through the ground and back to the energiser when an animal completes the circuit by touching the fence.
7. Fence Tester
All electric fences need regular maintenance, so you need a device to measure the power on the fence lines. A fence tester, or voltmeter, will help you locate any problem areas where power is leaking away.